How To Make Continuous Bias Tape From Pre-Cut Strips

Continuous bias tape is one of those small sewing supplies that can transform a handmade garment. It neatly finishes armholes, necklines, hems and seam edges, while adding a polished detail in a contrasting or matching fabric. Making a long length yourself also means you can use scraps, coordinate every finish and avoid buying several short packets.

Pre-cut strips make the process quicker, although accuracy still matters. The strips need to be cut on the bias, joined with diagonal seams and pressed carefully so the finished binding bends smoothly around curves. With a little planning, a handful of fabric strips can become one uninterrupted length of double-fold or single-fold bias binding.

Why Continuous Bias Tape Is Worth Making

Bias fabric is cut diagonally across the grain, usually at approximately 45 degrees. This gives the strip flexibility, allowing it to curve around a neckline or armhole without puckering. Straight-grain fabric can be joined into a long strip, but it will not have the same gentle stretch and may sit awkwardly around rounded edges.

Making your own binding is especially useful when a project calls for an unusual width or a precise colour. A lightweight cotton can finish a summer dress, while linen or quilting cotton may suit a tote bag, apron or home-sewn blouse. In Australia, where breathable garments are useful for warm weather, cotton lawn, voile and linen make comfortable choices for neckline and armhole binding.

There is also a practical advantage when working from a limited stash. A few leftover strips from a Melbourne fabric-market find or an old sewing project can be joined into a coordinated finish. If the fabric is too small for a complete garment, bias tape lets you preserve it as a visible trim rather than leaving it in the scrap box.

Gather Strips And Sewing Tools

Start with pre-cut strips that are the same width and cut on the bias. Common finished widths include 6 mm, 12 mm and 18 mm, while wider 25 mm strips are useful for larger seam finishes or ties. Check the pattern instructions before cutting, since the required strip width usually includes seam allowance.

You will need fabric strips, a sewing machine, matching thread, fabric scissors or a rotary cutter, pins or clips, an iron and a stable ironing surface. A fabric marker or chalk is helpful for drawing diagonal joining lines. A seam gauge makes it easier to check the seam allowance, particularly when working with narrow binding.

Use a fresh needle suited to the fabric. Fine cotton may need a 70/10 needle, while linen or medium-weight cotton may sew more cleanly with an 80/12. Test the thread tension on two joined scraps before committing to the full length. A short test prevents a loose or puckered seam from running through metres of finished tape.

Work Out The Strip Layout

Before sewing, lay every strip on a large table or clean floor and arrange them in the order you want. This is the moment to alternate prints, place the strongest colour at the centre or remove a strip that looks out of place. When using directional fabric, remember that the print may turn at each diagonal join.

The final length is approximately the total length of all the strips, minus a small amount for each diagonal seam and trimming. If you need 3 metres of binding, prepare slightly more than 3 metres. This spare length is useful because the first and last few centimetres may be uneven, and curved sections can consume more tape than expected.

Mark the wrong side of each strip at both ends. To make a diagonal seam, place the end of one strip across the end of another with right sides together. The strips should cross at a right angle, forming an offset corner rather than lining up end to end. Draw a line from the outer top corner to the opposite lower corner.

This offset arrangement is the key to an even continuous strip. If the strips are simply sewn together with straight seams, the joins create bulky bumps and the tape will not fold smoothly. Diagonal seams distribute the bulk and maintain a consistent width along the length.

Join Strips With Accurate Diagonal Seams

Take the first two strips to the machine and sew directly along the marked diagonal line. Use a regular stitch length, backstitching briefly at each end. Before cutting, open the joined pieces flat and check that the long edges flow in a straight line. If they do not, unpick the seam while it is still easy to correct.

Continue adding strips one at a time. Always place the next strip right sides together with the free end, keeping the strips offset and marking the diagonal in the same direction. It is worth pausing after every few joins to ensure the long strip has not twisted. A twist can remain hidden until the tape is being pressed, when it becomes frustrating to undo.

Trim each seam to approximately 6 mm, or to the seam allowance specified by your pattern. Remove the small triangular fabric ears beyond the seam. Do not trim too close to the stitching, because bias fabric can fray and a narrow seam may pull apart while the binding is being folded.

Press every seam open as you work. For a very lightweight fabric, press the seam to one side if the open seam becomes unstable, but open seams generally produce a flatter result. A tailor’s ham is useful when the tape is narrow, though the rounded end of an ironing board can also help.

If you are making a long length, keep the joined tape loosely coiled rather than dragging it across the floor. This is particularly helpful in a small Australian sewing room during a hot summer afternoon, when fabric can pick up dust, pet hair or lint surprisingly quickly.

Press And Mark The Long Tape

Once all the strips are joined, give the complete length a gentle press. Stretching the tape while ironing can distort the bias, so lift and press rather than pulling the iron along aggressively. Let the fabric cool flat after each section has been pressed.

For single-fold bias tape, fold both long raw edges towards the wrong side by the desired amount and press. A bias tape maker can speed up this step, but it is not essential. You can feed the strip through the tool while pressing, or fold each edge with a seam gauge for greater control.

Double-fold binding is made by folding the pressed single-fold tape in half again, with the folded edges meeting evenly. Press the centre fold firmly. For a 12 mm finished double-fold tape, the original strip is often around 48 mm wide, depending on the seam allowance and the exact folding method. Always make a sample because fabric thickness changes the result.

A simple cardboard template can help maintain a consistent width. Cut a slot or mark parallel lines on card, then use it as a guide while folding. This low-cost approach is handy when sewing away from a dedicated studio or preparing several colours for a community sewing group.

Store the finished tape on a cardboard reel, around a ruler or in a loose coil. Avoid winding it tightly, since strong tension can stretch the bias and make later application uneven. Label the width and fabric content if you plan to use it for a future garment.

Use The Binding On Handmade Garments

Before attaching the tape, stay-stitch curved garment edges if the pattern recommends it. Match the binding to the edge with right sides together, sew the first pass, then fold the tape over the raw edge and stitch it down. On a neckline, distribute the ease gradually rather than forcing the tape into one tight section.

For a clean finish, begin several centimetres away from the centre back or another inconspicuous point. Leave a short tail, join the ends neatly once the binding is sewn around the opening, and then finish the remaining section. This avoids a bulky overlap at the most visible point.

A contrasting bias finish can make a simple dress look considered. Natural linen tape works well on a cotton voile top, while a bright floral binding can lift a plain navy skirt. When choosing colours, think about how the garment will be worn in local conditions: breathable neutrals are useful for Queensland heat, while a darker binding can be practical on frequently washed children’s clothing.

For colour inspiration, a walk through seasonal fabric palettes can be surprisingly helpful; this Nikko foliage itinerary offers a rich reference for rust, moss, ochre and plum combinations. Those shades translate beautifully into patchwork cottons, wool-blend trims and autumn sewing projects, even when the Australian calendar feels very different.

Test the binding on a fabric scrap before applying it to the finished garment. This reveals whether the width suits the edge, whether the thread blends well and whether the fabric is too bulky for the fold. It also gives you a chance to practise corners, curves and the final join.

Avoid Common Problems And Finish Neatly

The most common issue is uneven width. It usually comes from strips that were cut inconsistently, diagonal seams that were positioned too close to an edge or folds that were pressed without a guide. Measure the first few strips and trim them before joining rather than hoping small differences will disappear.

Wavy binding often results from stretching the tape while sewing. Let the garment edge guide the tape and use a slightly longer stitch on stable fabric if needed. If the edge is very curved, sew slowly and lift the presser foot with the needle down to reposition the fabric.

Bulk at the joins can be reduced by pressing seams open and trimming the seam allowances at an angle. Avoid stacking several joins close together in a small area of binding. When attaching tape around an armhole, move the join to a less curved section so it is easier to sew flat.

Finished binding style	Useful starting strip width	Best uses	Main consideration
Narrow single-fold	18–25 mm	Fine facings, doll clothes, delicate edges	Needs accurate folding
Standard double-fold	40–50 mm	Necklines, armholes, quilts and bags	Easy to apply and widely useful
Wide double-fold	60–75 mm	Heavy fabrics, apron edges and straps	May feel bulky on lightweight garments
Extra-wide bias strip	90 mm or more	Ties, piping covers and decorative bands	Requires careful pressing and stable fabric

Keep a small sample of each finished width with your sewing tools. Write down the original strip width, fabric type and fold method. This saves time when repeating a favourite finish for a new project, especially when shopping for fabric at Spotlight, ordering online or using remnants from an op shop.

If a joining seam opens during use, repair it from the wrong side with a few matching stitches and press the area flat. For a special handmade garment, hand-stitching the final folded edge can provide a discreet finish. For everyday items such as reusable produce bags or children’s wear, a neat machine stitch is usually durable and efficient.

The method becomes faster with practice. After making one long length, you will recognise which fabrics fold cleanly, how much extra tape a pattern requires and which widths suit your machine. A carefully prepared bias strip can make a home-sewn garment look as polished as something from a small Australian label.

If you have a sewing project, fabric question or finished bias tape experiment to share, you can get in touch. Keep your offcuts, test the diagonal joins and make a length that suits the next garment on your sewing table.